kante

Conventionally, a grinder is just a common herb mill made for crushing rough plant parts or dried harvest fruit to a fine and suitable substance. This procedure allows to leave the necessity of a scissors or a mezzaluna and making a grinder a very helpful tool.

different types of grinder

Grinder / Herb Mills are available in great varity which differ in material, equipment and finishing. First we want to have a look on the material. Grinders are usually made of

Metal grinder

…viewed as the most robust and durable grinder, but it always worth a 2nd eye on the finishing and the principle operation.For example, you surely do not want to have a rest of paint in your crushed herbs. Also pieces of rust can ruin the results. For best results take care to choose a modern grinder made by a CNC milling cutter: Better avoid to select one with nails instead of integrated peaks.

If you want to get very fine results, there a a lot of grinders with a sieve, which will help to avoid rough parts in your grinding.



Wooden Grinder

Usually, wooden grinders are not completly made of wood, but will have at least metal peaks. These parts are normally nailed and not cutted, so it can happened that peaks are breaking during intensive action. Sure: wooden grinders are looking more rustical than metal mills, but wood is not as durable as metal, of course.



Acrylic Grinder

Acrylic Grinder are the cheapest available herb mills and do a good job on tour or if used only frequently. Same as wooden grinders you cant expect a long lifetime, because the material is rather thin in most cases and peaks are the most stable. As a pro i got to mention acryl grinder as not vulnerable to rust. There are no metal parts with the most acrylic grinder.



Caused by increasing accuracy and robustness of digital scales classic, the importance of analog scales more and more subsides. Also the fact that cheap digital scales are barely more expensive than mechanically alternatives is responsible for the low availability of these kinds of classic scales.

Analog scales – Pros

The most important advantage of an analog scale: you are not in need of any power supply. No batteries, no accumulator, no plug. Beside that, pan scales are more durable that any others. Digital and spring scales can be easily destroyed by overloading, which is not possible with pan scales.

Analog scales – Cons

In short terms: Analog scales are not as accurate as digital ones.

Kinds of analogous scales

There are two basic variants of mechanically scales: classical spring scales known from your physic class and grandmas good old pan scales (no modern scale could ever help to get apple cakes like that one were made with a pan scale).



Hang it: Spring scale

Spring scales

Most of you are familar with spring scales from your physic classes and maybe you were used to label it „Newtonmeter“ (which is in fact a wrong term).
The principle is simple: the wheight is determined by the tension of the spring. Be carefull with overloading: this would disable the scale forever.



Known from grandmas kitchen and from court: Pan scale.

Pan scales

Perhaps the most classical scale of all. Pan scales are indispensable in any kitchen and widespreaded in households managed in a retro-style.
The principle is based on a fixed point in the middle of the weighing beam. When both scales were brought to equilibrium, the result can be concluded by the weight placed on each side. PS: dont use a scale blindfolded – you wont be able to assess properly .

To be honest: the headline of this post is a little bit dramatically decrease, in fact you can enlight your waterpipe with nearly every kind of standard lighter you have bought in a 24/7 store. In emergency situations, even matches are suitable, but not really ideal. Best practise is to find a high-quality lighter with a great deal of gas power.



Clipper Lighter – gets bigger with more gradient.

The first question you should ask, is about the kind of problems that can occur using a standard lighter or matches. Basically, there are four points to consider:

  • lighter should produce enough heat to glow the whole bowl at once. Particularly big glass bowls often jam up, if the smokers provides to less heat. Fatal if you are using a one-hit bowl.
  • an similar effect is observable if your lighters flame is to small for the bowl. Beware of lighters with low fuel.
  • negative taste by e.g petrol gas.
  • scorched fingers by holding the lighter diagonally to the bowl.



Safety first: Keep away from Children nevertheless.

Special lighters – made in prior for bongs and waterpipes – have the advantage of a powerful jet, which provide a large and hot flame suitabel for even big bowls. There a also kinds of „intelligent“ pocket dragons with adjustable jets. This instrument allows to regulate the flames gradient.


Get the power: Hot beauty.

Please avoid every kind of petrol filled lighters. Besides the mentioned influence on taste, there are a lot of ingredients which wouldnt be very beneficial for your health – a smoker should take care about that point.

The success of a relaxed shisha meeting depends on the quality of the water pipe itself of course, the selected tobacco, functioning seals, an elaborate setup … and the choice of hookah coal . Especially rookies in smoking shishas often ignore the importance of the correct variant of coal and not only the worst failure – the using of barbecue coal, which can cause serious health problems – could be the reason for some kind of bad surprise.



For beginners: Instant Coal

Do not use barbecue coal …

Charcoal made for barbecue is not effective for smoking hookah, but can cause poisoning by some very unpleasant ingredients: e.g petroleum. By the way: it is not a problem to use some kinds shisha coal to broil your steak. Especially some sorts of spare coal are primarly made for this cause.

Sorts of hookah coal

In essence, the hookah friend distinguishes between three different types of hookah charcoal:

  • beginner friendly, fast ignition coal – includes small quantities of non-toxic black powder or magnesium.
  • Natural Charcoal without additives.
  • spare coal won of olive wood or coconut shells




Pure Nature – without any additives

Pros / cons of the types of coal

Fast ignition coal is suitable for beginners: You can easily ignite and it will burn off most pleasantly.
However, this kind of coal will show some individuell taste, which is not prefered by advanced smokers.

Coal without any additives will not show this feature. The taste is pure, not loaded and this kind of coal offers a much longer constant output. But, there is no chance to get it ignited with an ordinary lighter. You will be in need of some more advanced tools to do this job. Take care of having a lighter with some extra power or – better – use a camping burner from the start.

Just like the modern sorts of spare coal: using a special lighter is mandatory, but you would be rewarded – providing a correct setup – with some „extra time“ and „extra taste“… recommended for experienced users



Spare „Coal“ – Bamboo

The enjoyment of a new glass bong won’t last too long if you do not care for it and regularily clean the smudgy stuff off at the inner parts of the glass as well of the inner part of the downpipes. Particularly cleaning the latter one will improve the taste and the draught of the downpipe and perculator downpipe (which tend to plug up soon). You may get acceptable results without using special detergents – Low-budget smokers trust in dishwasher-tabs long soaking and shashlik-spits to drive through the downpipe. It’s much easier and faster if you use the right equipment:



Ugh! Yuck! Here a brush is needed!

Detergents for Bongs

Special detergents for glass bongs are available in different versions. Either gentle-organic or kill-the-dirt-in-5-seconds-stuff. If you use mild detergents we advise to soak the glass a little longer in warm/hot (but not too hot and never boiling) water. This helps to dissolve persistant
crust. Be very careful with acrylic bongs: strong detergents may corrode the material. This could deform discolour and even destruct the acrylic bong.

Brushes

Two versions of brushes are important for the professional bong cleaner: one for the bong and one for the downpipe. The choice depends on the kind of bong. Very easy to clean are bongs with a straight neck and no ball-shaped body. For ball-shaped bodies we recommend brushes with bristles that part. Whoever owns a bong with a curved neck has to consider to have a brush with a very flexible shaft to avoid that the glass will be damaged by too much pressure.
Take thoroughly care when cleaning diffusors with downpipe brushes: If executed too harsh the bottom of the diffusor might be pierced.

Cleaning Bowls

For this purpose there exist (steel)-brushes. But these tend to scratch the glass bowls. Better use a simple metal pipe cleaner and then wipe the bowlwith a clean kitchen towel. To also use dishwashing liquid won’t do any harm.

Next to the lighting (adjusted to the needs of the plants), an adequate irrigation system and often more important than fertilizers and nutrients is an exhaust system essential for the indoor grower, mostly to reduce the heat-build up of the lamps or the odors. Such an exhaust system usually consists of the following parts:

  • fans (aktive – electrically operated)
  • matching activated carbon filter (passive – not electric)
  • hose connectors (preferrably short since they reduce the performance)
  • hose clamps or tapes.




Matching connector sizes for fans, filters and hoses are very important. Usually they are 100mm, 125mm or 160mm, sometimes even larger with very powerful fans. The hose sizes come a little larger, so that the ends fit tightly around the connections of fans and activated carbon filters, i.e. 102mm or 127mm as examples. A direct connection without a hose is not possible, since the connection parts of the components are identical, so they can’t be joined.

What Fan size do I need?

First you need the following data to determine the necessary fan power:

  • room size in m³ (LxWxD)
  • length of duct hose between exhaust fan and filter
  • preferred exhaust frequency (how often the air of the room should be exchanged).

Then you do the math, given the example of a room size of 2m³:

  • Add approx. 35% to the room volume since the carbon filter reduces the power :
    (0,35*2m³)+2m³ = 2.7m³

  • Add 1m³ per meter duct hose. Here we have 1.5m between filter and fan, thus:
    2.7m³ + 1.5 = 4.2m³

  • Multiply this intermediate result with the preferred exhaust frequency (for grow boxes 30x/h should be more than enough, for standard rooms 15x-20x usually will suffice): 4.2m³*30 = 126m³

Now you know the needed power of your exhaust fan for a trouble-free aereation of your grow area.

Reducing Noise

To reduce the often rather loud noises of such an exhaust system, you may use separate silencers or, which is easier, insulated duct hoses that hold back most of the noise.

Our english blog is finally online. This is where we inform you about the most striking new entries, special offers and opportunities in our shop. Sometimes there might be a homestory too. Visit us regularly to learn more about our product range in the fields of head shop, grow shop, bong shop and shisha shop.

Can you smell what we are cooking?